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【津軽と北海道。雪と住宅のワンシーン】


 3月の声を聞いて集中除排雪も来てくれたのですが、冬将軍さまはいじわるのように毎日頑張っております。昨日も夫婦でおおむね30分ほどは除雪していましたが、この時期になってくると北海道の真冬らしい「軽い」雪質ではなくて、本州日本海側の湿度の高い雪質に感じられてくる。
 って、生活したことはないのでこういうのは想像による感覚ではあります。ただ、実際に雪かきはしていないけれど、この写真のような光景は目にすることは多い。こちらの家は「太宰治〜斜陽館」として知られるかれの生家の最近の様子。2025年2月24日の様子。この部位は斜陽館として知られるかれの生家に近接して建てられた「疎開していた家」。ということなので、今から80数年〜90年前頃の家と言うことになる。
 太宰は超富裕層の出身で生家は江戸期に高利貸しで儲けていた家系。幕末から明治に掛け、こうした商業資本家たちに農地取得の道が開かれて明治期の「大地主層」が形成されていった。いまもこの家系(津島家)は地域の政治家<太宰の孫に当たる津島淳>を輩出していて日本の支配者構造を明白に表している。
 おっと、そういう話題は本筋ではない。そういった歴史背景の中で建てられた住宅。住宅探訪が「ライフワーク」と定めてきた人間として全国の公開された住空間を見ることがNEXT領域だと思って歩いている。
 津軽の雪質は北海道人としては、似ているけれどやはり相当の「相違」を感じさせられる。北海道人には積雪によって「閉ざされる」という心象はそう大きくはないけれど、なんというか、重量感のある閉塞感が津軽の雪には感じられる。たまたまガラスの開口部には堆雪からの圧迫から守るように板状断熱材が緩衝材として使われているけれど、こういった作法は北海道ではこの時期(80数年〜90年前頃)でも避けられていたように思う。積雪寒冷条件に対して、津軽ではそれ以外の時期を基本気候として考える家づくりがスジ、と考えているように思うのですね。
 さすがに北海道ではこの写真のような「掃きだし窓」に直接積雪荷重が加わることは避けていただろう。同じ雪国だけれど、寒冷のレベルにやや違いがあってこういう相違が出来てくるのだろうか。
 旅人視点だけれど強い同胞感もあって、こうした相違についての市井の人との会話も楽しい。

English version⬇

[Tsugaru and Hokkaido. A scene of snow and housing]
Differences in the way of perceiving and thinking about snow across the Tsugaru Strait. The climate is the same, but the way of perceiving it is different. The dialogue in the city centre is also funny. …

 Intensive snow removal also came when we heard the call of March, but General Winter is working hard every day like a tease. Yesterday, too, a couple of us were generally clearing snow for about 30 minutes, but at this time of year, the snow feels like the humid snow on the Japan Sea side of Honshu, instead of the ‘light’ snow quality that is typical of Hokkaido in midwinter.
 I have never lived in Hokkaido, so this is just a feeling based on my imagination. However, although I don’t actually shovel snow, I often see scenes like the one in this photo. This is a recent view of his birthplace, known as ‘Osamu Dazai – Shayoukan’, on 24 February 2025. This part of the house is an ‘evacuated house’ built close to his birthplace, known as the Shayoukan. This means that the house was built around 80-odd to 90 years ago.
 Dazai was from a very wealthy family, and his family made money as a loan shark during the Edo period. From the end of the Edo period to the Meiji era (1868-1912), these commercial capitalists were given access to agricultural land, forming the ‘landowning class’ of the Meiji era. Even today, this family (the Tsushima family) has produced a local politician (Tsushima Jun, grandson of Dazai), which clearly shows the ruling structure of Japan.
 Oops, that is not the main topic. The houses were built in such a historical background. As someone who has defined house-hunting as my ‘life’s work’, I walk around the country thinking that the NEXT area is to see living spaces that have been opened to the public.
 The quality of the snow in Tsugaru is similar to that of Hokkaido, but I can feel a considerable ‘difference’. Although Hokkaido people do not have such a big image of being ‘closed in’ by the snowfall, there is a heavy sense of entrapment in Tsugaru’s snow. Although the glass openings happen to be protected from the pressure of the snow by a buffer of plate insulation, this practice seems to have been avoided in Hokkaido even at this time of year (around 80-90 years ago). In contrast to the snowy and cold conditions, Tsugaru people seem to think that it is natural to build houses in other seasons as the basic climate.
 In Hokkaido, it would have been avoided to add snow load directly to the ‘sweep window’ as shown in this picture. Although they are in the same snowy country, there is a slight difference in the level of coldness, which may be the reason for this difference.
 Although from a traveller’s point of view, there is a strong sense of fellowship, and it is fun to talk with local people about these differences.

【雪との対話もいよいよ晩冬期、除排雪風景】



 雪国人にとってほぼ半年にわたる「雪との対話」は、生きている証のようなもの。雪は個人の状況とは無縁にそれこそ自然の営みそのものとして関与してくる。一方年々加齢は進行してくるけれど、毎年、雪と体を通して相対しているとそれ自体が生命活動に深く関与していると感じられてくる。自分自身の健康感覚は毎年試され続けていると言えるだろう。
 マンション暮らしではたしかに雪と「縁遠く」はなるけれど、しかし無縁とは言えない。雪道歩行やクルマの問題だとかで否応なく自然環境と対話しながら生き続けていかなければならない。クルマでは常に「雪道にハマる」スタックの恐怖と隣り合わせ。いわんや戸建て住宅ではまさに直接的に日々の降雪具合に万全の注意を払って、イヤも応もなく対応を迫られることになる。例年11月くらいから、いつなんどき到来するかわからないという緊張がこころに準備され、12月には完全にそのモード全開になる。そして最盛期としての1−2月があって、3月にいたりようやく冬将軍さまから和平の申し入れをいただけるようになる。「もうちょっといるけどな(笑)」。
 そのような雪国的な強烈な「季語」として、公共による「集中除排雪」作業がある。共助という社会の仕組みだけれど、そのことに深く感謝の気持ちが湧いてくる。こういう地域としての生活実感は季語というような詠嘆的なとらえ方を超えるものだけれど、たぶん日本語文化圏がここ百年くらいの間に獲得してきたもののように思う。
 寒冷に対しては高断熱高気密住宅という知恵と進化を高めてきたけれど、積雪に対してはこのような公共の助力を得ながら、半年間、対話し続けているのだろう。年間積雪が5mを超える巨大都市というのは全人類的にも稀有だという。
 最近になってこういう雪国人の雪との対話と、温暖地域の「庭園趣味」との対比ということが気に掛かってきている。庭園趣味からすれば無粋そのものの堆雪の断面模様(下の写真参照)などに、じっと観察眼を働かせたりしている。
 樹木や緑、池などのうつろい以上に、その断面に花鳥風月を感じたりする。自分の除雪の作業痕跡とか、公共による除雪の痕跡などに、それなりの「韻律」を感じていたりもするのだ。こういうわたしはオカシイだろうかなぁ?(笑)。

English version⬇

The dialogue with snow is finally coming to an end in late winter, snow clearing scenery].
The dialogue that snow country people have with the snow around their homes has a spirituality that goes beyond the feeling of flowers, birds, wind and moon. The cross-sectional patterns of the snow in the snowbanks are a source of poetry and rhyme. …

 For snow country people, the almost six-month-long ‘dialogue with the snow’ is like a proof of life. The snow is not related to personal circumstances, but is involved in the workings of nature itself. On the other hand, although we age year by year, every year when we are in contact with the snow through our bodies, we feel that the snow itself is deeply involved in our life activities. It can be said that one’s sense of health is continually tested every year.
 Living in a condominium, it is true that you can get ‘away’ from the snow, but you can’t say that you are unaffected by it. We have to live our lives interacting with the natural environment, whether it be walking on snow-covered roads or driving a car. With cars, we are always next to the fear of getting stuck on snow-covered roads. In detached houses, on the other hand, we are forced to pay close attention to the daily snowfall and deal with the situation whether we like it or not. Every year, from around November, the tension of not knowing when the snowfall will come starts to build up in the mind, and by December, the mode is in full swing. Then there is January and February, the peak season, and finally in March, General Winter finally makes a peace offer. I’ll be here a little longer, though (laughs).’
 One such strong snowy ‘season’ is the public ‘intensive snow clearing’ operation. It is a social mechanism of mutual aid, for which we are deeply grateful. This sense of community life is more than a seasonal term in the sense of a poem, but it is something that the Japanese cultural sphere has probably acquired over the last hundred years or so.
 In response to the cold weather, we have developed highly insulated and airtight housing, and with the help of the public, we have been talking to each other about snowfall for half a year. A huge city with an annual snowfall of more than 5 metres is a rarity in the whole of humanity.
 Recently, I have become interested in the contrast between the dialogue between the snowy people of snow country and the ‘taste for gardens’ of warmer regions. I have been observing the cross-sectional pattern of composted snow (see photo below), which is quite tactless from the perspective of the garden hobbyist.
 More than the changing colours of the trees, greenery and ponds, I feel the flowers, birds, wind and moon in the cross-sections. I also feel a certain ‘rhyme’ in the traces of my own snow removal work and the traces of public snow removal. Am I crazy like this? (Laughs).

【母村という新たな民俗概念 十津川と「新十津川」-9】




 大阪豊中の民家園でみつけた「十津川の家」参観体験から、北海道人としてすぐに思い至った新十津川の由来、その地域同士の関係性について想念を巡らせてみた。本日でひと区切り。
 敬愛する作家・司馬遼太郎の著作でも「街道をゆく」シリーズで母村の十津川について「十津川街道」があり、そして子村にあたる新十津川についても同じシリーズで「北海道の諸道」で訪問記が記されている。そうした記述に導かれながら、こうした「母子関係」ということが、いかにも北海道らしい「民俗」の起点のひとつになるのではと感じている。
 わたし自身のことだけれど、自分の家系が江戸期、それ以前にどこの地に生きて、はるかに自分という人間がこの世に生成したか、いわばルーツに強く惹かれている部分がある。それが兵庫県の各地、そして広島県福山市、そして漠然としているけれど「紀州」さらには四国の愛媛県などに「痕跡」を探訪することが、まるでいのちの確証を求めるような心理で、その地の空気と対話していると感じている。そんなことから柳田國男の創始した「民俗」でも、あるいは柳宗悦の民藝運動などであまり触れられていない「北海道らしい民俗」というもののありようが、ほの見えてくる気がしてくる。
 もちろん北海道の日常の暮らしは明治以降の西洋文明の受容の最先端地域という側面が非常に大きい。その面が北海道らしい「民俗」のベースを形成していくことは間違いない。しかし一方で、北海道民それぞれの多様なルーツ感情がそこに投影されて、いわば「陰影」のように作用すると思える。
 司馬さんの新十津川探訪の記述を見ると、やはり戦後以降の科学的合理性・現代化が圧倒的なパワーを発揮して今日の北海道の地域のありようを構成しているのだということは自明。明治期までの伝統社会的な民俗が根付き発展したというよりも、やはり合理性発展が北海道の現在の本然の姿。しかしそうであっても新十津川の人びとは奈良県の十津川に対して「母村」というリスペクトを抱き続けている。そして母村の側でも、強い同胞意識を持ち続けている。
 北海道全体はそうした本州以南地域との「同胞」意識共有によって、新しい「民俗」意識を作り始めていると感じている。単なる地域性を超えた民俗。柳田民俗学の3分類に従えば「心意伝承」の進化形と捉えられる領域ではないだろうか。

English version⬇

[New folk concept of ‘mother village’ Totsukawa and ‘new Totsukawa’ – 9]
A sense of reverence for one’s roots. In a modernised society, I hope that this kind of spirituality will lead to a new ‘folklore’. …

 The experience of visiting a house in Totsukawa, which I found in a private house garden in Toyonaka, Osaka, immediately made me think about the origin of New Totsukawa, and the relationship between the areas. Today marks a break.
 In the ‘Kaido yuku’ series of books by the much-loved author Ryotaro Shiba, there is a section entitled ‘Totsukawa Kaido’ about Totsukawa, the mother village, and in the same series, a visit to Shin-Totsukawa, a child village, is described in ‘Hokkaido no Shurodo’ (Hokkaido Roads). Guided by these descriptions, I feel that this kind of ‘mother-son relationship’ is one of the starting points of a ‘folklore’ that is very typical of Hokkaido.
 As for myself, I am strongly attracted to the roots of where my family lineage lived in the Edo period and before, and how far back I came into the world. I feel that when I visit places in Hyogo Prefecture, Fukuyama City in Hiroshima Prefecture, Kishu and Ehime Prefecture in Shikoku, I am communicating with the atmosphere of those places, as if I am seeking for proof of life. From such a perspective, I feel that I can see a glimpse of the nature of ‘folk customs typical of Hokkaido’, which are not often mentioned in the ‘folk customs’ founded by Yanagida Kunio or in Yanagi Muneyoshi’s Mingei movement.
 Of course, Hokkaido’s daily life has a significant aspect of being a cutting-edge region in the acceptance of Western civilisation since the Meiji era. There is no doubt that this aspect forms the basis of ‘folklore’ typical of Hokkaido. At the same time, however, the diverse root feelings of the people of Hokkaido are projected onto it and seem to act as ‘shadows’, so to speak.
 Looking at Shiba’s description of his exploration of Shintotsukawa, it is obvious that the overwhelming power of scientific rationality and modernisation since the post-war period still constitutes the state of Hokkaido’s regions today. Rather than the traditional social folklore that took root and developed up to the Meiji period, rationality and development are still the true state of affairs in Hokkaido today. Even so, the people of Shintotsukawa continue to hold respect for Totsukawa in Nara Prefecture as their ‘mother village’. And even on the side of the mother village, they continue to have a strong sense of brotherhood.
 I feel that Hokkaido as a whole is beginning to create a new ‘folk’ consciousness by sharing such a sense of ‘compatriotism’ with the regions south of Honshu. Folklore that transcends mere regionality. According to the three classifications of Yanagida’s folklore, this is an area that can be regarded as an evolved form of ‘mind-mind transmission’.
 
 

【明治22年北海道への集団移住 十津川と「新十津川」-8】



 前章までで触れたような独特の地域風土と歴史経緯をもった十津川の地を大水害が明治22年夏におそう。
 地域産のスギ材などを出荷する地域の大動脈となっていた十津川自体の流路が大破綻してしまって、その復元のメドすら立たない中で、母村の破綻を知った明治政府に出仕していた同郷人たちが即座に政権中枢に働きかけて、折から移民を募り続けていた北海道への集団移住実現のために奔走し、超スピードでその難民救済という国家的な政策対応が実現する。明治22年8月の発災から10月には神戸港から集団移住の船が総数2691人を乗せて出航したという。すごい速度感。
 船は北海道・小樽港に着岸し、そこから汽車や徒歩で内陸部に入り、翌年6月半ばまで「屯田兵屋」で越冬した後、入植地として定められていた「トック」に入っていった。この地名はアイヌ語の「トックブト」(川の入口の突起)を意味し、石狩川と徳富(トップ)川の合流点の原野を指していた。その後、奈良県十津川村から村社・玉置神社を分祀して「新十津川」を地名とした。ちなみに玉置神社は世界遺産の絶景パワースポットとして知られる。日本人と神社信仰の関わり方、民俗性も伝わる故実。

 
 明治帝はこの十津川の惨事に際して当時の「弐千円」を下賜されて十津川の民の再起を祈念されたとされている。上の「告諭文」は当時の奈良県知事が「吉野郡十津川郷北海道移住者」に宛てたもの。
 「今や諸氏が墳墓の地を去って北海道に移るは今年八月、未曾有の災いに罹り一朝にして家産を失い生活其の方途を得さるが為にして心事を察すれば転々痛悼に堪えざるものあり然り・・・」と語り始めやがて「諸氏は古来勤皇を以て聞こゆる十津川郷の名族にして北海道はわが北門の鎖鑰(さやく)なり。」と記されている。そして「聖恩に答え奉らんことを諸氏、其れ勤めよや。別れに望み特にこれを告ぐ。」と締めくくられている。
 日本の歴史と北海道が出会ったワンシーンだけれど、象徴的な意味合いが感じられる。わたしたち北海道人のDNAの一断面にはこうした基底が存在していることが伝わってくる。

English version⬇

[Mass emigration to Hokkaido in 1889, Totsukawa and ‘New Totsukawa’ – 8]
The Meiji Emperor was also anxious about the disaster in Totsukawa and supported it. The mass emigration of the Tunda people. One episode in the history of Hokkaido. …

 In the summer of 1889, a major flood hit the region of Totsukawa, which had a unique local climate and historical background as mentioned in the previous chapters.
 The Totsukawa River itself, which was the main artery of the region for the shipment of locally produced cedar timber and other products, suffered a major breakdown, and with no time frame for restoration, the local people who had served in the Meiji Government, upon learning of the collapse of their mother village, immediately approached the centre of government and worked hard to realise mass emigration to Hokkaido, which had long been inviting immigrants. The national policy response to provide relief for the refugees was achieved with super speed. In October after the disaster in August 1889, a ship carrying a total of 2,691 people set sail from the port of Kobe. Amazing speed.
 The ships landed at the port of Otaru, Hokkaido, from where they entered the interior by train or on foot, wintered at the ‘Tondenbeiya’ until mid-June the following year, and then entered ‘Tok’, which had been designated as a settlement area. The name of this place means ‘Tokkbut’ (a projection at the entrance of a river) in Ainu, and referred to the wilderness at the confluence of the Ishikari and Tokutomi (Top) rivers. Later, a village shrine, Tamaki Shrine, was enshrined as a branch shrine from Totsukawa Village, Nara Prefecture, and ‘Shin Totsukawa’ was used as the place name. Incidentally, Tamaki Shrine is known as a World Heritage Site and a spectacular power spot. This is a late fact that also conveys the way Japanese people relate to shrine beliefs and their folklore.

 It is said that at the time of the Totsukawa disaster, the Meiji Emperor gave the people of Totsukawa ‘one thousand yen’ to pray for their revival. The above ‘letter of warning’ was addressed by the Governor of Nara Prefecture at the time to the ‘emigrants of Hokkaido, Totsukawa-go, Yoshino-gun’.
 The above ‘letter’ was addressed to the ‘emigrants of Totsukawa-go, Yoshino County, Hokkaido’ by the Governor of Nara Prefecture at the time. (Hokkaido is the key to our northern gate.’ Hokkaido is the key to our northern gate’. It then goes on to say: ‘Let us all work to answer to the Holy Ghost. In parting, I wish to say this in particular.’ It concludes.
 It is a scene where the history of Japan and Hokkaido meet, but it has a symbolic meaning. It shows us that this basis exists in a section of the DNA of the people of Hokkaido.

【山間集落の中核・丸田家の間取り 十津川と「新十津川」-7】




この十津川郷の人びとの暮らしようとして対外的な交易による収入手段は林業生産。とくにスギの植林がさかんだった。そういった植林と伐採・出荷が営々と行われてきた。当然、十津川という河川を使った運搬が交易路。その運搬のためには伐採したスギなどを川原まで落としてそこで集約して結束させて、新宮などの海に面した港湾地域までいかだ流しをする。
 急峻な山間地域としてこうした「生産物」を出荷・育成管理するのに最適化した住宅建築が求められるだろう。スギなどの樹木の育成地に近接して山を背にした傾斜地に対して横に細長い敷地条件が必然になる。
 この丸田家住宅は、十津川に沿って開けた村の中心に建てられ山の斜面を削り取って盛り土していた。当然、南面する傾斜地が敷地として利用されるので、その方向に縁がまわされる間取り構成になる。奥行きは取れないけれど、一方で南面側の開放空間は、非常に天地の広大さを体感できるような眺望が確保できるだろう。日本の住宅建築の主流は田畑や市街地域に囲まれた平野部立地が圧倒的に優勢ななかで、独特の眺望的開放感に恵まれていたと思われる。わたし個人の体験してきた住宅では、四国の山間にある【大嘗祭に麁服(あらたえ)調進の徳島「三木家住宅」】として紹介した住宅と似た雰囲気を醸し出してくれる。
 毎年強い台風の影響を受けるため、軒先と妻側に雨風除けの板がタテ方向に張られている。外観写真にあるような板で「スバルノウチオロシ」と呼称される。谷底から吹き上げる風に屋根が吹き飛ばされたり、軒下に湿気が入り込むのを防ぐ仕様。



 間取りとしては谷側に縁を取って、奥の間(座敷/客間)中の間(居間/寝室)勝手の間(居間/台所)が並列されている。3つの部屋の奥には「なんど」と書かれた細い通路空間があって、座敷と台所が直接つながっている。座敷に迎え入れた客人に対しての応接接待の利便性を高めた空間性。こうした間取り構成は江戸期の中下級武士の間取り構成に多く見られるとも言われる。見て来たような政治情勢などへの敏感な対応力は、このような間取り構成からも涵養されてきたのだろうと推認される。
 また母屋付属の便所の壁には、刀掛けもあって幕末の緊張期を想起させている。

English version⬇

Floor plan of the Maruda family, the core of the mountain village Totsukawa and ‘New Totsukawa’ – 7
The layout of the house is designed with an emphasis on reception, as is typical of a house that is sensitive to the outlook on the state of affairs due to the necessities of its basic livelihood of forestry production and distribution. The openness of the south-facing view. …

The way of life of the people of Totsukawa-go was based on forestry production as a means of income from foreign trade. Cedar plantations were particularly popular. Such afforestation, logging and shipping were carried out continuously. Naturally, the trade route used the river Totsukawa for transport. For this transportation, logged cedar and other materials were dropped down to the riverbanks, where they were consolidated and tied together, and then rafted to port areas facing the sea, such as Shingu.
 As a steep mountainous area, housing construction optimised for shipping and managing the cultivation of such ‘produce’ will be required. A site condition that is long and narrow horizontally against the slope with its back to the mountain, in close proximity to the growing area of cedar and other trees, is a necessity.
 This Maruda family residence was built in the centre of an open village along the Totsu River. The slope of the mountain had been cut away and filled in. Naturally, the south-facing slope was used as the site, so the floor plan was structured with the edge of the house facing that direction. Although depth cannot be taken, on the other hand, the open space on the south side of the house will ensure a view that will allow the viewer to experience the vastness of the sky and earth. While the mainstream of Japanese residential architecture is overwhelmingly based on plains, surrounded by fields and urban areas, it seems to have been blessed with a unique sense of openness with a view. In my own personal experience, I have experienced an atmosphere similar to that of the Miki Family Residence in the mountains of Shikoku, Tokushima, which was used for the preparation of clothing for the Great Tasting Ceremony. >The house creates a similar atmosphere to the houses introduced as
 As the house is affected by strong typhoons every year, boards are placed vertically at the eaves and on the gable end to protect it from the wind and rain. These boards, which are shown in the exterior photo, are called ‘Subaru Noochiroshi’. They are designed to prevent the roof from being blown off by winds blowing up from the bottom of the valley and to prevent moisture from entering under the eaves.

 The layout consists of an Okunoma (tatami room/guest room), Naka-noma (living room/bedroom) and Katsute-noma (living room/kitchen), which are arranged in parallel on the valley side, with a narrow passage space marked ‘Nando’ at the back of each of the three rooms, directly connecting the tatami room and kitchen. This spatial feature enhances the convenience of entertaining guests who are welcomed into the tatami room. This type of floor plan configuration is said to be common in the floor plans of middle and lower class samurai during the Edo period. It can be inferred that the ability to respond sensitively to political situations, as we have seen, was also cultivated through this type of layout configuration.
 The wall of the toilet attached to the main house also has a sword-hanging, which recalls the tense period at the end of the Edo period.

 

【幕末明治の勤皇 十津川と「新十津川」-6】




 上の写真は、今も使われる十津川の村旗で上には朝廷への勤皇思想を表す菊の紋章があしらわれ、その下に「十」の字がマークされている。もとは丸に十だったけれど、薩摩家と類似するので菱にしたという。北海道の新十津川も同じ紋章。右の石碑は「天誅組本陣跡石碑」。
 その下の文書写真は、1863年朝廷側近から十津川郷士に出された文書で天誅組に与力せずに京都御所に出仕すべきだと勧めている内容の記載。きわめて政治的に機微なことがらに十津川人が絡んでいることがわかる。

 東北での講演での出張日程ですっかり本来のブログ記事執筆のテーマの継続性が途切れていましたが、本日から再度「十津川と新十津川」シリーズ再開。北海道は日本全国からの移民が多様に住み着き、それが混淆してきた歴史ですが、そういった特異な「民俗」形成論を地道に掘り起こすべきだろうと思っています。
 奈良県南部で和歌山県の太平洋岸側につながる山間地域で、歴史的に米作が行われず、日本の政治経済体制のなかで「年貢赦免」地域であったという特異な地域。しかしこういう特異性から、権力機構との交渉・対話の機会が積層してきたことで、特異な地域としての政治関与が伝承してきたと思われます。
 こういう地域性格から政治変動に敏感で、関ヶ原時期には大阪の陣では徳川側にいち早く参陣して、江戸期を通じて安定を確保してきた。しかし幕末時期になると、こうした地域性格からその「風見鶏」的な観望能力が発揮されて、地域を挙げて「勤皇」思想に走るようになる。
 1853年に大和五條を訪れた吉田松陰や、十津川を訪れた梅田雲浜などの勤皇思想家たちは、この「十津川の家」として保存されている「丸田家」当主、丸田藤左衛門たちに強い影響を与え、1861年には十津川のひとびと100人が京都御所の警備を担当することになった。朝廷から玄米500石を下賜され、京都に十津川屋敷を与えられるなど「藩」並みの厚遇を受けることになる。同時期に起こった「天誅組の変」では十津川人40名ほどが逮捕されたが、丸田藤左衛門が身元引受人になって役所に出頭したという。やがて維新戦争が起こると、十津川の人びとは新政府軍に入隊し多くの戦死者を出しながら奮戦し、戦後、十津川の人びとはすべて「士族」とされた。
 明治になって以降も天皇の近衛兵には十津川郷士の閥が形成されてきたという。こうした政治力が十津川大水害からきわめて短期間での北海道新十津川への移住実現の背景になったとされる。

English version⬇

[The Emperor at the end of the Edo period and the Meiji period: Totsukawa and ‘New Totsukawa’ – 6]
It is essential for the theory of ‘folklore’ in Hokkaido to steadily uncover how each region relates to its own ‘mother village’. Resumed exploration of the strongest mother-child relationship. …

 The photograph above shows the village flag of Totsukawa, which is still in use today, with the chrysanthemum crest on top, representing the emperor’s imperialism to the Imperial Court, and the character ‘10’ below it. Originally, it was a circle with a ten on it, but the Satsuma family changed it to a rhombus because of the similarity. Shin Totsukawa in Hokkaido has the same crest. The stone monument to the right is the ‘Tenchugumi Main Camp Site Stone Monument’.
 The photograph of the document below shows a document issued to Totsukawa Goushi in 1863 by a member of the Imperial Court’s inner circle, recommending that they should serve at the Kyoto Imperial Palace without giving their support to the Tenchugumi. It is clear that the Totsukawa were involved in extremely politically sensitive matters.

 The continuity of the original theme of my blog posts was completely interrupted by my travel schedule for a lecture in Tohoku, but today I am resuming the ‘Totsukawa and Shin-Totsukawa’ series again. Hokkaido has a history of diverse settling and mixing of immigrants from all over Japan, and I think we should steadily dig up such peculiar theories of ‘folk’ formation.
 This is a mountainous region in southern Nara Prefecture, connected to the Pacific coast of Wakayama Prefecture, and is unique in that it was historically an area where rice cultivation was not practised, and was a ‘tribute-absolute’ area within Japan’s political and economic system. However, this peculiarity has created a lamination of opportunities for negotiation and dialogue with the power structures, and it is thought that political involvement as a peculiar region has been handed down from generation to generation.
 Because of this regional character, the region was sensitive to political changes and was one of the first to join the Tokugawa side in the Osaka campaign during the Sekigahara period, ensuring stability throughout the Edo period. However, towards the end of the Tokugawa shogunate, the region’s ‘weathercock’ outlook became apparent, and the whole region began to embrace the idea of the ‘Emperor of Japan’.
 In 1853, Shoin Yoshida, who visited Gojo in Yamato, Unhama Umeda, who visited Totsukawa, and other imperialists had a strong influence on Tozaemon Maruta, the head of the Maruta family, whose house is preserved as the ‘Totsukawa House’, and in 1861, 100 Totsukawa people were assigned to guard the Kyoto Imperial Palace. They were given 500 koku of rice by the Imperial Court and a Totsukawa mansion in Kyoto, and were treated as well as a ‘clan’. During the Tenchugumi Incident that occurred around the same time, some 40 Totsukawa people were arrested, but Maruta Tozaemon reportedly acted as their guarantor and turned himself in to the authorities. When the Restoration War broke out, the people of Totsukawa joined the new government forces and fought hard while suffering many deaths, and after the war, all Totsukawa people were considered ‘samurai’.
 After the Meiji era (1868-1912), cliques of Totsukawa local warriors continued to be formed in the Emperor’s personal guard. This political power is said to have been behind the migration to Shin Totsukawa in Hokkaido in a very short period of time after the Great Totsukawa Flood.

【青森県東部と北海道のさかな大好き談義】




 わたしのブログ記事ではときどき魚の捌きなどを書くのですが、今回久しぶりの八戸周辺訪問と言うことで、敬意を表して「八食センター」を探訪しておりました。
 扱われている魚種は、その時期の旬の魚たちなので、訪問中の食事でなにかと参考になるのですね。穴子やハモなど系統は北海道ではあんまり見かけない。ホヤはさすが三陸海岸ということで、たくさん出荷されている。また、ニシンはいまどき北海道では久しぶりの「群来」で沸いていて、わが家でも毎週3匹程度を捌き続けております。また、カレイで「オイラン〜花魁という意味だとか」と接頭語がついたヤツがたくさん出回っているではありませんか。どうも聞いたら、その腹部のビーナスラインが絶世の美しさで男達の目線を釘付けにするということ(笑)。まぁそういわれてみれば、肌つやといい、なかなかの美形と見えるようになるから不思議不思議。このオイランカレイは見事に煮付けられたヤツを食べることもできた。なかなかに美味な逸品で、堪えられませんでした。どうも酒がすすむ。
 2日目の十和田会場の懇親会では地域の工務店の方で「先週末、津軽海峡の海でサクラマス釣りをやっていました」「もう寒くって、ただただ身を屈め続けていました(身振り)」というお話し。すっかり同情の念が募ってきてどんどん口をついて出てくる地域の海の魚の話を聞き出しておりました。いや、面白かった。
 八食センターでは、この写真の他にもたくさんの珍しい魚種を見ていましたが、イカとんびまで発見できた。じゃぁ、タコとんびやいかにと探したり、魚屋さんに聞いたりしましたが、八戸ではあまり流通していないようでしたね。
 しかし、まことに「地域間情報交流」として魚種の違いと近似性に深く頷かされる。とくにニシンについては六カ所で取れるニシンは「ブランドニシン」とされて珍重されているというお国自慢も聞かされておりました。う〜む、食してみたい。というか、ぜひ丁寧に捌いてみたい。
 あ、魚ばかりではなく「馬刺し」も出されていて、久しぶりにありがたく食させていただけました。北海道ではあまり聞かない食習慣ですね。やっぱり食の話題はサイコー。一気に「わかりあえる」。

English version⬇

Discussions on the love of fish between eastern Aomori and Hokkaido.
There is no topic more inviting than the exchange of information on the regional characteristics of fish species and foods, such as flounder, herring, salmon, horsemeat, etc. Superb information to whet your appetite. …

 I sometimes write about fish processing in my blog posts, and this time, as my first visit to the Hachinohe area in a while, I was exploring the Hachishoku Centre out of respect.
 The species of fish being handled are the seasonal fish of the time of year, so they are a good reference for meals during a visit. Strains such as conger eel and hamo are not so common in Hokkaido. Ascidians are indeed from the Sanriku coast, and are shipped in in large numbers. In addition, herring are nowadays booming in Hokkaido for the first time in a long time, and our family continues to process about three of them every week. There are also a lot of flounder with the prefix ‘Oiran – meaning “oiran” or “flower courtesan”’. I was told that the Venus line on the abdomen is of unparalleled beauty and attracts the attention of men (laughs). Well, if you put it that way, you can see that she is quite good-looking, with a nice skin tone. I was also able to eat a piece of this flounder that had been boiled to perfection. It was quite a tasty gem, and I couldn’t stand it. It was very tasty and made me want to drink more sake.
 At the get-together at the Towada venue on the second day, a local construction worker told us that he had been fishing for cherry salmon in the sea of the Tsugaru Strait last weekend and that it was already cold and he just kept bending over (gestures). I was completely filled with sympathy and listened to more and more stories about the local sea fish that kept coming out of their mouths. No, it was interesting.
 At the eight food centres, I saw many other rare fish species besides the one in this photo, and even spotted a squid pontoon. Then I looked for octopus pompi and asked the fishmonger about it, but it didn’t seem to be well distributed in Hachinohe.
 However, I was deeply impressed by the differences and similarities between the fish species as an ‘inter-regional information exchange’. In particular, we were told that the herring caught in Rokkasho is regarded as ‘brand herring’ and highly prized in the country. Hmmm, I would like to try some. Or rather, I would like to try carefully processing them.
 Oh, they served not only fish but also ‘horse sashimi’, which I was grateful to be able to try for the first time in a long time. This is a food custom that you don’t hear much about in Hokkaido. Food is a great topic. We can ‘understand each other’ at once.

 

【疲労&風邪から、元気復活・再起動へ】



 一昨日2/27に仙台空港から空路北海道へ帰還しましたが、どうも仙台空港でクシャミを発症して以来、体調がすぐれず2/28にはかかり付け医に伺って、風邪の投薬をいただきました。かかり付け医にかかった時には、仙台空港で外国の方とも接触があったので、一応念のため、院内に入る前にコロナの簡易検査もして大丈夫との診断も受けていました。用心は長引きますね。そのあとには出張で延期してもらっていた歯科の施術もあって、帰ってからはひたすら薬を飲んで睡眠確保でベッドで9時間以上。
 なんとかカラダの平穏感が戻って来ましたが、薬の作用もあって、ボーッとした感じで全然アタマは回転してくれない。「回転しない」という表現は日本語としてすごく優秀だなぁと思い至るほど、まことに脳味噌がしずかに佇んでいる感じでありました。
 このブログの記述はだいたい朝7時前くらいにはアップさせているのが通常ですが、本日はこの時間になってしまいました。で、そんななかいつも宮城県の農家の方からお米を直接購入していたのですが、高齢にもなってきたことから直接販売については終了したい、という悲しいお知らせも。コメ生産と流通の現場では、相当おかしな投機というか思惑とかが渦巻いているような動向を感じさせられますね。
 というようなことですが、いっときの不調から確実に体調は上向き改善に向かってきています。病は気からと言われますが、適切な投薬で症状を改善させて、適度な休養を確保すれば気分もやがて立ち直ってくる。このようにブログを書きたいという程度には気分がアップしてきています。
 写真は東北行脚途中で立ち寄っていた青森市内のホテルからの外の写真。ことしは札幌以上の多雪。ようやく少し雪融けが進んできたようです。またもう1枚は、宮城県北東平野部の水田地帯の様子。宮城県から岩手県の東北道周辺地域では、平筒沼・手代木沼· 伊豆沼や下女沼、錦秋湖·八幡沼··ガマ沼などの湖沼があって、渡り鳥たちが羽根を休めている風景が目に飛び込んできます。季節感を話しかけてくれるかれらはかわいらしいですね。

English version⬇

From fatigue and cold to revitalisation and rebooting
Fatigue and poor health due to greedy itinerary planning. However, after a day or so of plenty of sleep and rest, they were back on their feet again. …

 I returned to Hokkaido by air from Sendai Airport the day before yesterday, 27 February, but I have not been feeling well since I sneezed at Sendai Airport, so I visited my family doctor on 28 February and received medication for a cold. When I visited my family doctor, I had been in contact with foreigners at Sendai Airport, so just to be on the safe side, I was given a simple test for corona before entering the hospital. Precautions are long overdue. After that, I had a dental procedure that had been postponed due to a business trip, and after returning home, I spent more than nine hours in bed, just taking my medication and ensuring sleep.
 I managed to get a sense of calmness back in my body, but partly due to the effects of the medication, I felt dazed and my mind didn’t revolve at all. I felt like my brain was standing still and quiet, so much so that I realised that the expression ‘no rotation’ is a very good Japanese word.
 I usually upload my blog entries before 7am, but today it’s late. I have always bought rice directly from a farmer in Miyagi Prefecture, but I was sad to hear that he is getting old and wants to end direct sales of rice. I can sense that there is quite a lot of strange speculation or speculation going on in the field of rice production and distribution.
 However, my health is definitely improving after a short period of illness. It is said that illness is a disease of the mind, but if you take the right medication to improve your symptoms and ensure adequate rest, your mood will eventually recover. My mood is improving to the extent that I want to write a blog like this.
 The photo is from outside a hotel in Aomori City, where I had stopped on the way. We have had more snow this year than Sapporo. It seems that the snow is finally melting a little. Another photo shows rice paddy fields in the north-eastern plains of Miyagi Prefecture. In the area around the Tohoku Expressway from Miyagi to Iwate Prefecture, there are lakes and marshes such as Hirazutsunuma, Teshirogi-numa – Izunuma and Shimome-numa, Kinshu-ko – Hachiman-numa – Gaman-numa, where migratory birds are resting their wings. They are endearing as they speak to us of the seasons.

 

【宮城県登米、マンガ家生家取材。空からふたたび岩手山】


 クルマによる「移動革命」時代にリアルタイムな人間なもので、ついつい行動範囲がクルマ本位に広大になってしまう。今回もたまたま仙台での要件もあったので、札幌−仙台の往復+東北滞在中はレンタカーでの自由な移動を選択しておりました。ということで、きのう十和田のホテルで目覚めた後、早朝から前から見たかった宮城県登米市の「石ノ森章太郎ふるさと記念館」へ長躯移動。
 この訪問は「できれば」ということだったのでそうしっかりは調べていなかったのですが、行ってみたらすぐ近くに「石ノ森章太郎生家」もほぼそのまま保存されて公開されていました。石ノ森章太郎は手塚治虫に生き方の起点を「起爆」された世代の典型例。わたしとは年齢にして14才年上ですが「兄貴」的な同世代感が強い存在。なので、その高校卒業までを呼吸していた家・空間には、強い「同時代感」を受けていました。
 ひとつのわたし自身の高齢期のキーワードとも思える「作家と住空間」体験でも、ここまで同世代感覚が刺激される空間も初めてだったように思われます。建築素材の簡易なベニヤ合板素地にまで、独特の呼吸感が伝わってくる。ここで得られた画像とか、情報はしっかりと整備して熟成させてみたいなと思った次第でした。

 というところでしたが、どうも1日の移動距離としては、やはり十和田から仙台空港までというのは途中のこの寄り道を加えると400km程度になって、体力的にはオーバーワーク気味。
 さらにこういう情報受容をしたあとは、しっかりと整理整頓しておく必要がある。できればすぐにデスクワークでパソコンなどに情報処理しておきたい。ということで、あとは仙台空港にまっすぐに直行し、ひたすら公共的パソコンデスク環境で整理整頓に努めておりました。
 で、夕刻飛行機に搭乗したらすぐに睡魔が襲ってきてしばし爆睡の後、ふと目覚めて窓外を見た。そうしたら間違いなく時間的にも符合するタイミングで、行きのときに迎えてくれ、また仙台からの北上途中でも地上から眺められた岩手山が、ふたたび三度、その容姿を見せてくれていた。上の写真です、おお。
 「なんだ、もう帰るのかよ」とでも呼びかけてくれているかのように心理にこだましてくる。「あはは、また来るからサ」と心中で応答しておりました。縁が強いのかなぁ。

English version⬇

Interview with a manga artist’s birthplace, Tome, Miyagi Prefecture, Japan. Mt Iwate again from the sky].
The expression on Mt Iwate’s face was as if it was calling out, ‘Are you going home already? The expression on Mount Iwate’s face is as if it is calling out, ‘Are you leaving already? I wonder if mountains and humans are having an unexpected mental dialogue. I’ll be back again. I’ll be back.

 As a real-time person in the era of the ‘mobility revolution’ by car, I tend to have a vast range of activities that are car-oriented. This time, too, I happened to have some requirements in Sendai, so I chose to travel freely by rental car between Sapporo and Sendai plus the rest of my stay in Tohoku. So, after waking up in a hotel in Towada yesterday, I made the long-run trip to the Shotaro Ishinomori Furusato Memorial Museum in Tome, Miyagi Prefecture, which I had wanted to see from early in the morning.
 I hadn’t researched this visit so thoroughly because it was a ‘hopefully’ visit, but when I went there, I found that ‘Shotaro Ishinomori’s birthplace’ was also preserved and open to the public almost as it was, just around the corner. Shotaro Ishinomori is a typical example of a generation whose way of life was ‘kibakusha’ by Osamu Tezuka. Although he is 14 years older than me, I have a strong sense of him as my ‘older brother’. Therefore, I felt a strong sense of ‘contemporariness’ in the house and space where he breathed until he graduated from high school.
 In my own experience of ‘artists and living spaces’, which seems to be one of the keywords of my old age, this is the first time I have been in a space that stimulated such a sense of contemporariness. Even the simple plywood of the building material conveys a unique sense of breathing. I would like to try to maintain and mature the images and information obtained from this exhibition.

 The distance travelled in one day from Towada to Sendai Airport, including this side trip, is about 400 km, which is a bit overworked physically.
 Furthermore, after receiving this kind of information, it is necessary to organise it properly. If possible, I would like to process the information immediately on my desk work, e.g. on a computer. So I went straight to Sendai Airport and worked hard to get organised at my public computer desk.
 So, as soon as I boarded the plane in the evening, I had a sleepy feeling and after a long nap, I woke up and looked out of the window. Then, at the right time, Mount Iwate, which had welcomed me on the way to Sendai and which I had been able to see from the ground on the way north from Sendai, was showing its appearance three times again. The photo above, oh.
 The mountain echoed in my mind as if it was calling out to me, ‘What, you’re leaving already? I will come back again,’ I responded in my mind. I wonder if I have a strong connection.

【青森県十和田市でも講演開催、任務を完了】


 今回の2連続講演日程の十和田市を昨日、無事に完了させていただきました。
 昨日の「会場」はいま話題の隈研吾氏設計の十和田市の「市民交流プラザ・トワーレ」。もう建築から結構な年月が経っている建物。外観的には見る範囲では、今回の話題のような兆候はみられていないと思われました。あ、もちろん一時通行人に過ぎないので、細部の確認などは当然出来ていませんが多くの木造建築関係者のみなさんからも、特段の話題提供などはありませんでした。
 講演会には両日とも、たくさんの旧知のみなさんが参加いただき、旧交を温めさせていただきました。懇親会では、最近の業容などについてさまざまな現場感覚を取材させていただけた。さすがに地域密着の作り手のみなさん、それぞれの状況の中でさまざまに活路を見出し、それを開発したり、またもともとの「強みを発展」させたりという状況が伝わってきます。素晴らしい。いつも思うのですが、各地域の家づくりに携わっている工務店企業は日本の中小企業の「ものづくり」パワーの基盤と言えるでしょう。そういったみなさんが元気である、そして活発に情報交流を行っていることが社会の重要な要素。
 またわたし自身が不勉強だったのですが、これまでさまざまに工務店業界と協働してきている東北電力さんも今回のイベント開催で、コロナ禍以降の空白を解消するような機会になっていたとのこと。住宅建築を巡るさまざまなコストアップ要因のなかで、この厳しい状況をどのように転換させ、家づくりの未来状況を作り出せていけるのか、創意工夫に満ちた再起動の動きが端緒についたようです。わたしどもとしても、関連会社であるReplan発行元(株)札促社とともに、いろいろお役に立てられるような「創意工夫」を提案していく必要性が高まっていると痛感させられた次第。
 そういうなかでほんのわずかなこころみではありますが、今回のわたし自身の出版計画も活性化のひとつのきっかけとして刺激を与えられれば幸いだと意を強くした次第。そしてまずは、このようにさまざまな情報交換機会、刺激を相互に交流させていくこと自体が、有益なのでしょう。

English version⬇

[Lecture also held in Towada City, Aomori Prefecture; mission completed].
It is important that the root of the ‘monozukuri’ power of Japanese society – local engineering firms – face up to difficulties with their vitality and ingenuity. Reaffirming their vitality. …

 I successfully completed this two-session lecture schedule in Towada City yesterday.
 Yesterday’s venue was the Civic Exchange Plaza Twarre in Towada, designed by Kengo Kuma, who is currently the talk of the town. The building has been under construction for quite a few years. Externally, as far as I could see, it did not seem to show any signs of the current topic. Of course, as I was only a temporary passer-by, I was not able to check the details of the building, but many people involved in the wooden building industry did not offer any particular topics of discussion.
 Many old acquaintances attended the lectures on both days, and we were able to warm up old friendships. At the reception, we were able to cover various on-the-ground sensitivities about recent business developments. As might be expected of community-based producers, we were able to get a sense of how they are finding various ways of making a living in their respective circumstances, developing them and also ‘developing’ their original ‘strengths’. It’s wonderful. I always think that the construction companies involved in house building in each region can be said to be the foundation of the ‘manufacturing’ power of small and medium-sized enterprises in Japan. It is an important element of society that these people are energetic and actively exchange information.
 Also, although I myself was uninformed, I heard that Tohoku Electric Power Company, which has been working with the construction industry in a variety of ways, also used the event as an opportunity to fill the void left after the Corona disaster. Amidst the various factors that are driving up costs in the housing construction industry, it seems that a movement to restart the industry, full of creativity and ingenuity, has begun to take shape, to see how we can turn this difficult situation around and create a future situation for house-building. We, together with our affiliated company Replan Publishers, have become acutely aware of the growing need to propose ‘originality and ingenuity’ that can be of use in a variety of ways.
 In this context, I have strengthened my hope that my own publication project will provide a stimulus as a trigger for revitalisation, even though it is only a small part of my intention. First of all, it would be beneficial for us to exchange various opportunities for information exchange and stimulation in this way.